How Much Does It Cost to Run a 3D Printer in the UK?
Filament is usually the big cost and electricity the small one. Here is the maths with a worked example, plus the hidden costs people forget.
By Sepehr Sabbagh-pour · Published 10 October 2026 · 2 min read
Printing at home is cheap per part but not free, and the numbers are easy to get wrong. This guide gives you the formula, a worked example in pounds, and a list of the costs that usually get ignored. If you would rather skip the arithmetic, use the print cost calculator.
The formula
- Filament: part weight in grams, plus a waste allowance, divided by 1,000, times your price per kilo.
- Electricity: average watts divided by 1,000, times print hours, times your unit rate in pounds per kWh.
- Wear: an optional allowance per hour for nozzles, belts and build plates.
A worked example
Say a part weighs 100 g on the slicer estimate and takes 5 hours. Your filament costs £20 per kilo, your printer averages 120 W over a whole print, and your unit rate is 25p per kWh. Add 10% for waste.
| Item | Working | Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Filament with waste | 110 g ÷ 1,000 × £20 | £2.20 |
| Electricity | 0.12 kW × 5 h = 0.6 kWh × £0.25 | £0.15 |
| Total | £2.35 |
So in this example, about 94% of the cost is plastic. That ratio holds for typical home printing, which is why filament price per kilo matters more than a few watts here or there.
Where the numbers come from
- Filament price. Standard PLA often sells for roughly £12 to £25 per kilo, with specialist materials costing more. Buying larger spools or multipacks usually lowers the price per kilo.
- Power draw. Averaged over a whole print, many printers land somewhere around 80 to 200 W, because the heated bed and any enclosure heater do most of the consuming. Measure yours with a plug-in energy monitor for one print; it is the only reliable answer.
- Unit rate. Use the pence-per-kWh figure on your bill. The standing charge is paid whether you print or not, so it does not belong in a per-print cost. If you are on a time-of-use tariff, long prints can run in the cheap window.
Costs people forget
- Failed prints. A reasonable waste allowance covers some of this, but a bad week can cost more.
- Consumables. Nozzles wear out, especially with abrasive filaments, and build plates and belts age.
- The printer itself. Spread the purchase price over the prints you expect to make.
- Your time. Not a cash cost, but the reason many people still buy simple things.
Quick rule of thumb. Electricity per hour in pence is watts ÷ 1,000 × your unit rate in pence. At 100 W and 25p per kWh that is 2.5p an hour.
Ways to cut the bill
- Print with fewer supports and a lower infill where strength does not need it.
- Buy filament in bulk and store it dry, so you do not waste a wet spool. See how to dry filament.
- Fix first-layer problems early; our first layer checklist saves more plastic than any tariff switch.
Frequently asked questions
How much electricity does a 3D printer use per hour?
Typically between about 0.08 and 0.2 kWh per hour averaged over a print, though it varies a lot with the heated bed and enclosure. At 25p per kWh that is roughly 2p to 5p an hour. Measure yours to be sure.
Is it cheaper to 3D print something than to buy it?
For small, simple parts, usually yes in materials, but the printer cost, failed prints and your time change the answer. It is most clearly worth it for custom or hard-to-find parts.
Does a 3D printer use power when idle?
Yes, a little, and more if the bed or chamber stays heated. Switching it off at the wall between jobs avoids that; a plug-in energy monitor will show you how much it is.
Founder and editor
Software engineer since 2009 and Head of Engineering by day, a maker who has owned several 3D printers, writing practical guides to 3D printers, filament and running costs, with every article saying what was and was not tested.
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