First 3D Printer Upgrades Worth Making

The best first 3D printer upgrades are the ones that solve a problem you actually have. This guide is desk research from manufacturer documentation and store pages, not a test of any part. It lists upgrades in the order most owners meet the need for them, and says when to skip each one.

How to decide whether an upgrade is worth it

Ask three questions. What problem does it fix? Can you show the problem with a print? Does the manufacturer support the change? The last one matters because some changes void warranties or confuse firmware. Read your manual before swapping parts, and see our maintenance checklist first, since worn or dirty parts often cause what looks like a need for an upgrade.

If your problem is a poor first layer, stringing or a blob, a settings fix is nearly always cheaper. Start with fixing a bad first layer and fixing stringing.

Upgrade 1: a spare print plate

Print surfaces get scratched, oily or damaged, and a spare lets you keep printing while one is cleaned. On the UK-region Bambu Lab store on 2026-10-10, the Textured PEI Plate was listed at 17.99 GBP for the A1 mini and 31.99 GBP for the A1, P1 series, X1 series and P2S. Prusa's documentation shows why plate choice matters: it separates smooth, textured, satin and PA Nylon sheets, each with different cleaning rules. See our explainer on build plates.

Worth it if: your plate is worn or you want a different finish on the underside of parts. Skip if: your current plate grips well and releases parts cleanly.

Upgrade 2: a spare nozzle

A nozzle is a consumable. Bambu Lab suggests replacing a worn or leaking nozzle if cleaning does not restore extrusion, and Prusa publishes replacement guides for each of its printers, plus a printable Nozzle Replacement Tool. Keeping a spare turns a clog into a short job. See nozzle sizes explained before buying, because the diameter changes layer height limits and print time.

Worth it if: you print often or have clogged once already. Skip if: you are still on your first spool.

Upgrade 3: a hardened nozzle, only for abrasive filament

Prusa states that brass has excellent heat conductivity and is tough enough for most common filaments, but wears too quickly with abrasive ones. It also states that composite filaments filled with carbon, glass or kevlar require a hardened nozzle. It offers options named ObXidian and Hardened (nickel plated) for this purpose. Bambu Lab's A1 documentation shortens the cleaning interval from every five spools to every two when printing carbon fiber filament, which hints at how much harder those materials are on the hotend.

Worth it if: you plan to print filled filaments. Skip if: you only use PLA, PETG and similar unfilled plastics. Our hotends and nozzle materials guide goes into more detail.

Upgrade 4: a filament dryer or dry storage

Wet filament causes stringing, rough surfaces and weak parts, and no hardware upgrade will fix it. A dedicated dryer or sealed storage is often a better first purchase than any mechanical part. Start with how to dry filament, then see how to store filament and how to choose a filament dryer.

Worth it if: you buy PETG, nylon or TPU, live somewhere damp, or leave spools out for weeks.

Upgrade 5: an enclosure, ventilation or filtration

An enclosure keeps drafts off the print, which helps with materials such as ABS, and contains emissions. Clemson University's safety guidance suggests choosing enclosed printers where possible and says full enclosure appears more effective at controlling ultrafine particle emissions than a cover. Read enclosed vs open frame printers and our safety basics first. If you are on an open-frame printer, note that third-party enclosures change airflow, heat and fire considerations, so follow the maker's guidance.

Worth it if: you want to print ABS or ASA, or the printer sits in a living space. Skip if: you only print PLA and the room is ventilated.

Upgrade 6: a maintenance and tool kit

Hex keys, tweezers, a brass nozzle brush, isopropyl alcohol and the maker's own lubricant are what the Prusa and Bambu Lab maintenance pages list. See our starter kit guide. This is the cheapest upgrade and prevents the most failures.

Upgrades to be careful with

• Bolt-on parts for printers that are already tuned. Changing hardware can break calibration, so recalibrate afterwards using this guide.
• Anything that bypasses a safety feature. Prusa and Wayne State University both describe thermal runaway protection as a fire safeguard. Never disable it.
• Parts that make the printer faster before it prints well. Speed is a settings and tuning issue first.

Budget view

Wondering what the whole setup costs? See how much a 3D printer costs in the UK.