PrusaSlicer for Beginners: Setup and First Slice

PrusaSlicer is a free, open-source slicer: the program that turns a 3D model into the layer-by-layer instructions your printer follows. It is made by Prusa Research, but it also ships profiles for many other printers. This guide covers the setup and the first slice, in the order Prusa's own documentation uses. It is built from that documentation, not from our own print runs, so treat any setting as a starting point.

New to the idea of slicing? Read what a slicer is first. If you have not printed anything yet, the how to 3D print guide covers the whole process.

Before you start: what you need

• A computer running Windows, macOS or Linux.
• A 3D model file. Prusa's guide says PrusaSlicer can import STL, STEP, 3MF, OBJ and AMF files. If you are unsure which to use, see STL vs 3MF vs G-code.
• Your printer model, nozzle size and the filament type you plan to use.
• A way to get the file to the printer: an SD card or USB drive, or a network connection if your printer supports it.

Step 1: Download and install PrusaSlicer

Prusa recommends downloading the installer from the PrusaSlicer page on prusa3d.com. On Windows and macOS you can also take it from the GitHub releases page. Check that you pick the right file: Prusa notes that Windows builds are labeled Win32 or Win64 (most current computers are 64-bit) and the Mac build is a DMG. On Linux, Prusa says PrusaSlicer is distributed through Flathub.

At the time of writing (checked 2026-10-10) the latest stable release on GitHub is version 2.9.6, published 2026-06-25. Newer versions will appear over time, and the menus can shift slightly between them.

Step 2: Run the Configuration Wizard

The first time you open PrusaSlicer, the Configuration Wizard starts on its own. You can reopen it later from the top menu under Configuration. According to Prusa, the wizard covers these points:

• Prusa Account login (optional). Logging in downloads profiles automatically. Without an account, PrusaSlicer uses configuration sources instead, which you should leave enabled so it can fetch Prusa's online profiles.
• Printer profiles. Tick your printer and nozzle size. The list starts with Original Prusa printers. Profiles for other vendors sit under the "Other FFF" section, where you pick the vendor and then your printer. If yours is not listed, there is a custom printer option.
• Filaments. Choose the filaments you own. Prusa marks with an asterisk the materials that are not compatible with an installed printer.
• Updates and file association. You can let PrusaSlicer check for updates and update its built-in profiles automatically, and set it as the default program for 3MF and STL files.
• View mode. Choose simple, advanced or expert, and metric or imperial units.

Step 3: Import and orient your model

Drag the file into the PrusaSlicer window, use the Add button on the toolbar, or choose File then Import. If the model lands in a bad orientation, use the Rotate tool (shortcut R). Prusa says the short guide marks rotate in 5-degree steps and the long ones snap to 45 degrees. The Place on Face tool is quicker: pick a flat face of the model and it lays that face on the print bed.

Orientation matters because every layer rests on the one below. A flat face on the bed gives better grip and usually needs fewer supports.

Step 4: Pick printer, material and layer height

In the right-hand panel, select your printer, then the filament preset, then a print profile. Presets bundle the temperatures, speeds and cooling for that material, which is why picking the right one matters more than any single slider. Prusa suggests starting with 0.15 mm or 0.2 mm layers, which it describes as very good quality at reasonable print times. Thinner layers look smoother but take longer. For a deeper look, see layer height explained.

Step 5: Decide on supports, infill and brim

• Supports. Parts that would otherwise print in mid-air need them. PrusaSlicer can generate them automatically: choose either Supports on build plate only, or Supports everywhere. See supports explained.
• Infill. The sparse pattern inside the part. Prusa says values around 15% generally work well. More infill costs time and filament. See infill explained.
• Brim. Extra outlines around the first layer that help adhesion and reduce warping, useful when the footprint is small. It is a checkbox in the panel and Prusa notes it is usually easy to remove by hand. Compare it with other options in brim vs raft vs skirt.

Step 6: Slice and preview

Click Slice now. PrusaSlicer switches to the preview, and you can also toggle it with the Tab key. Drag the vertical slider on the right to move through the layers. Prusa recommends always checking the preview before printing: confirm the shape matches the model and look for any section that starts in mid-air. If you see one, turn on supports and slice again.

Step 7: Export the G-code

When the preview looks right, click Export G-code. Prusa says that if you insert an SD card or USB drive, PrusaSlicer detects it and adds an Export to SD/USB drive button, then shows an Eject button once the file is written. Use eject before pulling the card out. Prusa's guide mentions both G-code and bgcode (a binary G-code format) as outputs, depending on printer. Your printer's own documentation tells you which it accepts.

Common beginner mistakes

• Wrong printer or nozzle profile. The sliced file assumes the nozzle you chose. If it does not match the hardware, the extrusion amounts will be wrong. Read nozzle sizes explained.
• Skipping the preview. It is the cheapest way to catch a missing support.
• Changing many settings at once. Change one thing per print so you know what caused any difference.
• Ignoring the first layer. Most failed prints start there. See how to fix a bad first layer.

Where to go next

Once the first print works, learn what each setting does, one at a time. If you are still choosing between programs, Cura vs Orca Slicer vs PrusaSlicer compares the three main free options. If you are choosing hardware for PrusaSlicer, our Prusa CORE One first look covers the specs and price of Prusa's enclosed CoreXY printer.

Everything here comes from Prusa's documentation and the PrusaSlicer project pages, not from our own print tests. Defaults and menu names can change between versions, so use the current Prusa Knowledge Base alongside this guide.